236-36th St.
Bellingham, WA 98226
phone: 360-647-1980 fax: 360-647-1869
Client Education Now that you have your new puppy, here are some helpful tips from the staff at Village Veterinary Hospital to help with the growth, development and socialization of your newest family member. If there are ever any problems, questions or concerns please feel free to phone us at (360) 647-1980. The contents of this 'puppy pack' is just a simple guide line. Each puppy is different and may need a different approach to training and socialization than what is included here.
Supervise your new dog-even indoors. Introduce one room at a time. Introduce the new member slowly to any other pets in the house while supervising. House train immediately. Take outside on a schedule, to the same spot every time. When the pup eliminates, reward with praise and playtime, treats also work. If there are accidents in the house use a firm "no" and immediately take the pup outside. Introduce crate training. It gives your dog a place to escape family hubbub and you a safe place to confine the dog when you can't be there to supervise. Make sure to introduce crate training slowly and to always make it a positive experience. Establish a feeding schedule. Stick to it and make your dog sit before eating. A feeding schedule can also be a help with house training. Enroll in a group training class. Regardless of how well-trained your dog or puppy may seem, training will help your bond and provides needed socialization. Deal with aggression or serious behavior problems. Call a professional right away. These things are best dealt with in the early stages. Above all, be patient and give lots of love and praise. Introducing children to
the new puppy
Treat the puppy nicely. Don't kick or tease him. No yanking on his tail or pulling at his ears. Dogs will lash out if provoked or hurt. Speak in a normal tone of voice. Don't yell or scream in the puppy's face. His hearing is more sensitive than ours. If the puppy walks away from you, don't follow. This means he doesn't want to play anymore. Establish a place in your home where he can rest without children-and their friends-disturbing him. (If you are crate training your puppy, this is a good spot.) Teach your child to respect the puppy's "resting place". Don't bother the puppy when he's eating or sleeping. These are times when dogs don't like to be pestered. Be sure your child knows that if you have a 'mouthy' puppy that's likes to nibble or a very excitable puppy that pushing him away, screaming "stop" or running away may only excite him more. He will think it is just play and continue. Tell your child to stand up and remain still and the pup will eventually get bored. A new toy can them be introduced. If your child is very young, you may need to intervene and correct inappropriate play behavior. It is important to set up guide lines for children so they can grow up understanding the responsibility of owning a pet and enjoying the experience of caring for an animal with love and respect. Including children with feeding, bathing, and general care will strengthen the bond between puppy and child. Good Grooming Now that you have your new puppy home and vaccinated it's time to socialize and show him or her off. Since everyone loves a clean puppy and most all puppies love to play in the mud...Bathing a puppy can be a real challenge, especially when your clever pup uses every resource in his little canine brain to thwart your attempts to get him clean. Here are a few helpful tips on how to make bath time a pleasant time for you and your pup. Collect your supplies. The first thing to do, before you even run the bathwater, is collect all the supplies you will need. Here are the basics:
Get Ready, Get Set... Now that you have your supplies; and again, each breed of dog will need a little something different, put all supplies within reach of the tub where you will bathe your puppy. Now put on some clothes that you don't mind getting wet or a bathing suit, make sure the door to the back yard and favorite mud hole is closed, and latch the doggy door. Get a few treats ready and begin with "good dog, it's bath time". Completely wet the pup and scrub all areas. Be sure to keep the water and soap from going in the eyes or ears. Rinse all the soap out very well as dried soap residue may cause some itching or skin irritation. Getting Dry When the bath is over, wrap your puppy in a big, soft towel and gently squeeze and blot the water from his coat. Don't rub the coat as wet hair breaks and tangles easily. Make sure the house is warm so the little one doesn't catch cold. You can use a blow dryer set on very low to help the pup dry faster. If your home isn't set up for bathing your new puppy many towns offer self serve dog washes. Here in Bellingham there is Bailey's Bath House where you can take your new pup and they provide the supplies needed for a reasonable charge. There are also mobile grooming services where a large vehicle equipped with a tub inside will come right to your home. Lets not forget the doggy spa's where you can take your dog and they are treated to a day at the spa including nail treatment, hair cut and what ever else is desired. Now that your little one is clean and smelling good, its time to start thinking about getting into the best puppygarten. Puppy Classes Ideally, you'll want to find an instructor who teaches good manners behaviors in class as well as providing puppy socialization (play!) time, and who will also address questions you may have about other topics, such as housetraining, crateing, and puppy biting. The hope is that you will find a "well-run" puppy class.You want an experienced trainer who uses gentle, effective training methods on her human clients as well as the dogs, and who conducts her classes in a safe, clean environment. There should be a good understanding of dog body language and social behavior, as well as knowing when to intervene if a puppy is being inappropriate with playmates. The instructor should have knowledge of puppy diseases and parasites and require presentation of health records upon registration for the class. When you are watching a prospective training class, look for these things:
Internet Resources for
finding a trainer trulydogfriendly.com : Website and listings for trainers who are committed to using positive training methods. clickerteachers.net: This is a list of trainers who use clicker teaching methods. ccpdt.com: Website for the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers has a listing for all Certified Pet Dog Trainers worldwide. There are many classes offered here in Bellingham. Each school is a little different and uses different techniques. Refer to the list on how to find schools and best choose a class for you and your puppy. There is a list kept with our front staff if you would like a recommendation for puppy school. Vaccinations There are many diseases that are fatal to dogs. Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of these by the use of very effective vaccines. In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections. Ideally, they are given at about 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, but this schedule may vary somewhat depending on several factors.The routine vaccination schedule will protect your puppy from five diseases: distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza virus, parvovirus, and rabies. The first four are included in one injection that is given at 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks old. Rabies vaccine is given at 16 weeks of age. There are two other optional vaccinations that are appropriate in certain situations. Your puppy should receive a kennel cough vaccine if a trip to a boarding kennel is likely, if it will be placed in a puppy training class, or if you frequent dog parks where your dog is exposed to other dogs often. Lyme vaccine is given to dogs that are exposed to ticks because Lyme Disease is transmitted by ticks. Please advise us of these needs on your next visit.
Table foods are not recommended. Because they are generally very tasty, dogs will often begin to hold out for these and not eat their well-balanced dog food. If you choose to give your puppy table food, be sure that at least 90% of its diet is good quality commercial puppy food. In addition to table foods, it is also important that you not give certain other things to dogs. Bones of birds (chicken, turkey, etc.) are hollow and splinter easily producing very sharp pointed pieces of bones. These can easily pierce the esophagus, stomach, and intestines resulting in peritonitis and death. Three Curious Things about Puppies Puppies may be observed to make unusual sounds or movements during their sleep. This is called "activated sleep." It probably occurs because your puppy is dreaming and trying to participate in the dream. This behavior lasts a few months but rarely continues into adulthood.Puppies also have "puppy breath." There is a characteristic smell about a puppy's breath. It is not particularly offensive or desirable. It is much like the smell of a new car. It is present a few weeks then disappears. Puppies also frequently have episodes of hiccups. They may occur for 10-20 minutes at a time then spontaneously disappear. They are probably related to swallowing of air when eating and do not produce any significant distress to your dog. They will stop as your puppy gets a little older. Spaying Females Spaying offers several advantages. The female's heat periods result in about 2-3 weeks of vaginal bleeding. This can be quite annoying if your dog is kept indoors. Male dogs are attracted from blocks away and, in fact, seem to come out of the woodwork. They seem to go over, around, and through many doors or fences. Your dog will have a heat period about every 6 months.Spaying is the removal of the uterus and the ovaries. Therefore, heat periods no longer occur. In many cases, despite of your best effort, the female will become pregnant; spaying prevents unplanned litters of puppies. It has been proven that as the female dog ages, there is a significant incidence of breast cancer and uterine infections if she has not been spayed. Spaying before she has any heat periods will virtually eliminate the chance of either. If you do not plan to breed your dog, we strongly recommend that she be spayed before her first heat period. This can be done anytime after she is 6 months old. Neutering Males Neutering offers several advantages. Male dogs are attracted to a female dog in heat and will climb over or go through fences to find her. Male dogs are more aggressive and more likely to fight, especially with other male dogs. As dogs age, the prostate gland frequently enlarges and causes difficulty urinating and defecating. Neutering will solve, or greatly help, all of these problems that come with owning a male dog. The surgery can be performed any time after the dog is 6 months old.Pet Identification The latest in pet retrieval is microchip. This tiny device is implanted with a needle so the process is much like getting an injection. Our scanner can detect these chips; humane societies and animal shelters across the country also have scanners. A national registry permits the return of micro chipped pets throughout the United States and Canada. We recommend it.
What You Need to Know about Kittens
First, let us say that we are grateful that you have chosen us to help you with your kitten's health care. If you have questions concerning any subject related to your kitten's health, please feel free to call our hospital. Either one of the technicians or one of the doctors will be happy to help you. Introducing a New Kitten to its New Environment A cat is naturally inclined to investigate its new surroundings. It is suggested that the cat's area of exploration be limited initially to help it feel safe and so that these natural tendencies do not create an unmanageable task. After confining the cat to one room for the first few days, you should slowly allow access to other areas of the home.Introducing a New Kitten to Other Cats in the Household Most kittens receive a hostile reception from other household pets, especially from another cat. The other cat usually sees no need for a kitten in the household, and these feelings are reinforced if it perceives that special favoritism is being shown the kitten. The existing cat must not feel that it is necessary to compete for food or for attention. The new kitten should have its own food and food bowl, and it should not be permitted to eat from the other cat's bowl. Although it is natural to spend time holding and cuddling the kitten, the existing cat will quickly sense that it is being neglected. The new kitten needs lots of love and attention, but the existing cat should not be slighted. In fact, the transition will be smoother if the existing cat is given more attention than normal.The introduction period will usually last one to two weeks and will have one of three possible outcomes.
Socialization The socialization period for cats is between 2 and 12 weeks of age. During that time, the kitten is very impressionable to social influences. If it has good experiences with men, women, children, dogs, other cats, etc., it is likely to accept them throughout life. If the experiences are absent or unpleasant, it may become apprehensive or adverse to any of them. Therefore, during the period of socialization, we encourage you to expose your cat to as many types of social events and influences as possible.Good Play Guide
Kittens should always be supervised when playing with string or ribbons to avoid swallowing them. Any other toy that is small enough to be swallowed should also be avoided. The following are some ways to influence your kitten's play and prevent it from becoming destructive.
Disciplining a Kitten Disciplining a young kitten may be necessary if its behavior threatens people or property, but harsh punishment should be avoided. Hand clapping and using shaker cans or horns can be intimidating enough to inhibit undesirable behavior. However, remote punishment is preferred. Remote punishment consists of using something that appears unconnected to the punisher to stop the problem behavior. Examples include using spray bottles, throwing objects in the direction of the kitten to startle (but not hit) it, and making loud noises. Remote punishment is preferred because the kitten associates punishment with the undesirable act and not with you. Never use physical punishment as this will cause the kitten fear you.Avoid training your kitten to be a 'terrorist'. Teasing a small kitten with your fingers or toes may seem like fun, but this will quickly change as the pet grows older and the bites become harder. Play interaction with your cat should involve tossing or dangling toys for it to chase and catch as to direct its attacks away from you. While some of these little guys can become quite bloodthirsty and relentless, their behavior can be controlled if you take an early stand. Vaccinations There are many diseases that are fatal to cats. Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of these by using very effective vaccines. In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections. Ideally, they are given at about 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, but this schedule may vary somewhat depending on several factors.The routine vaccination schedule will protect your kitten from four diseases: distemper, two respiratory viruses, and rabies. The first three are included in a combination vaccine that is given at 6-8, 12, and 16 weeks old. Rabies vaccine is given at 16 weeks of age. Leukemia vaccine is necessary if your cat does or will go outside or if you have another cat that goes in and out since this deadly disease is transmitted by contact with other cats, especially when fighting occurs. A vaccine is also available for protection against feline infectious peritonitis (FIP); this vaccine is not necessary for all cats and is recommended in select situations. Intestinal Parasites ("Worms") Intestinal parasites are common in kittens. Kittens can become infected with parasites almost as soon as they are born. For example, the most important source of roundworm infection in kittens is the mother's milk. The microscopic examination of a stool sample will usually help us to determine the presence of intestinal parasites. We recommend this exam for all kittens. If we can not get a stool sample, please bring one at your earliest convenience. Periodic deworming throughout the cat's life may be recommended for cats that go outdoors.Tapeworms are the most common intestinal parasite of cats. Kittens become infected with them when they swallow fleas; the eggs of the tapeworm live inside the flea. When the cat chews or licks its skin as a flea bites, the flea may be swallowed. Cats infected with tapeworms will pass small segments of the worms in their stool. The segments are white in color and look like grains of rice. Tapeworm segments do not pass every day or in every stool sample; therefore, inspection of several consecutive bowel movements may be needed to find them. Periodic deworming may be necessary if your cat will be going outdoors. Feeding a
Kitten Feeding a dry, canned, or semi-moist form of cat food is acceptable. Each has advantages and disadvantages. Dry food is definitely the least expensive. It can be left in the cat's bowl at all times. If given the choice, the average cat will eat a mouthful of food about 12-20 times per day. The good brands of dry food are just as nutritious as the other forms. Table foods are not recommended. Because they are generally very tasty, cats will often begin to hold out for these and not eat their well-balanced cat food. If you choose to give your kitten table food, be sure that at least 90% of its diet is good quality commercial kitten food. The Litter Box The number one behavioral problem of cats is urinating out of the litter box (inappropriate urination). There are several things that cause this frustrating problem, but some of those are related to the litter box. The following comments are included to prevent problems later because cats are particular about their litter boxes, the litter, and the location.Choose a litter box that is large enough for your cat to fit in comfortably. It needs to be able to turn around freely. An 18 X 14 inch box with 4 inch sides is appropriate for most adult cats. Kittens may need a box with shorter sides so they can get in and out easily. We do not recommend a box with a top (hood). Although hooded litter boxes are more private and better contain the litter, they also trap odors inside. Because cats are so fastidious, these odors often cause them to seek other places to urinate. Many cats exhibiting inappropriate urination will return to their litter boxes when the lid is removed. There are three types of litter: clay, clumpable, and organic. Clay litter absorbs 75-100% of its weight in moisture. This is good but not adequate to keep urine from being absorbed throughout a widespread area of litter. Solid matter and wet litter should be removed 1-2 times per day, but the entire litter box should be changed weekly. Clay litter is also quite dusty. Cats with allergies can have increased problems when breathing the litter dust. Clumping litter is also called scoopable litter. It absorbs urine and swells to about 15 times its original volume. Therefore, you need only to remove the litter clumps. The entire box should still be changed every week or two to prevent bacteria buildup. Clumping litter can be a problem especially with long-haired cats as it tends to get stuck up in the fur on their feet and cause irritation. Clumping litter tends to control urine and stool odors better than clay litter. Organic litters are made of alfalfa, newspaper, peanut hulls, corn cobs, or recycled, biodegradable materials. They appeal to many cats, but they are also not received well by others. Some litters contain scented or odor-controlling additives. Some cats tolerate them, but others find them objectionable. To minimize the chances of inappropriate urination, it is better to avoid scented litters. Fecal matter and wet litter need to be removed once daily for each cat that uses the litter box. If you already have cats at home, provide an additional box for each new cat. Even with clumping litter, a monthly scrubbing of the litter box removes odors that may collect in the box itself. Use warm, soapy water and avoid scented disinfectants. The location of the litter box is important. It should be on an easily cleaned surface as some cats don't always aim well. Litter is also scratched out or tracked out of the litter box frequently. It is very important that the litter box be placed in a quiet, non-threatening location. Cats need their privacy and will avoid a litter box that is in a high traffic area or a location accessible to dogs. Flea Control Fleas do not stay on your kitten all of their time. Occasionally, they will jump off and seek another host. Therefore, it is important to kill fleas on your new kitten before they can become established in your house. Many of the flea control products that are safe on adult cats are not safe for kittens less than 4 months of age. Be sure that any flea product you use is labeled safe for kittens.Trimming Toenails Kittens have very sharp toe nails. They can be trimmed with your regular finger nail clippers or with nail trimmers made for dogs and cats. If you take too much off the nail, you will get into the quick; bleeding and pain will occur. If this happens, neither you nor your cat will want to do this again. Therefore, a few points are helpful:
Ear Mites Ear mites are tiny insect-like parasites that live in the ear canal of cats (and dogs). The most common sign of ear mite infection is scratching of the ears. Sometimes the ears will appear dirty because of a black material in the ear canal; this material is sometimes shaken out. We can find the mites by taking a small amount of the black material from the ear canal and examining it with a microscope. Ear mites are common in litters of kittens if their mother has ear mites. Spaying Female
Cats Spaying offers several advantages. The female's heat periods result in about 2-3 weeks of obnoxious behavior. This can be quite annoying if your cat is kept indoors. Male cats are attracted from blocks away and, in fact, seem to come out of the woodwork. They seem to go over, around, and through many doors. Your cat will have a heat period about every 2-3 weeks until she is bred. It has been proven that as the female dog gets older, there is a significant incidence of breast cancer and uterine infections if she has not been spayed. Spaying before she has any heat periods will virtually eliminate the chances of either. There is mounting evidence to believe that this is also true of cats. If you do not plan to breed your cat, we strongly recommend that she be spayed before her first heat period. This can be done anytime after she is 5 months old. Neutering Male Cats Neutering is the surgical removal of both testicles. It offers several important advantages. Male cats go through a significant personality change when they mature. They become very possessive of their territory and mark it with their urine to ward off other cats. The tom cat's urine develops a very strong odor that will be almost impossible to remove from your house. They also try to constantly enlarge their territory which means one fight after another. Fighting results in severe infections and abscesses and often engenders rage in your neighbors. We strongly urge you to have your cat neutered at about 6 to 9 months of age. If he should begin to spray his urine before that time, he should be neutered immediately. The longer he sprays or fights, the less likely neutering is to stop it.Pet Identification The latest in pet retrieval is microchipping. This tiny device is implanted with a needle so the process is much like getting an injection. Our scanner can detect these chips; humane societies and animal shelters across the country also have scanners. A national registry permits the return of microchipped pets throughout the United States and Canada. We highly recommend it.
Keeping Kitty Safe
Nutrition Dietary deficiencies are the underlying cause of many physical and behavioral problems. A bird should be on the best possible diet all of the time, not just during molts or breeding. A bird may need more food at certain times, but should never be on a diet that "needs improving". Check out "Feeding Your Pet Bird", also located on this page, for more information.Environment Room temperature of 60 - 75 F and free of chilling drafts are suggested. A drop of 5 - 10 F at night is beneficial if the bird is healthy and gradually acclimated to change. Sudden changes in temperature can be dangerous to a sick bird. Many birds can be housed outdoors if they are healthy and adequate shelter is provided as well as time to gradually adjust to their new environment. Opportunities for supervised access to fresh air and direct sunlight are beneficial as long as shade is available. Anytime a bird is taken out of doors without a cage, even with wings trimmed, the possibility of a good breeze allowing them to take flight is a very real danger.Avoid exposure to smoke, especially cigarette smoke, and other fumes including fumes from Teflon coated cooking utensils. If your bird has free movement in your home, be sure they are safe from toxins (plants, cords, painted wood, chemicals, etc.) and other dangers like ceiling fans, dogs and cats, young children, and large, exposed windows that could be flown into. Housing The largest cage possible is recommended for any bird that is confined most of the time. Even small birds, like parakeets, need as much space as can be accommodated; the larger the better. It needs to be strong enough to resist bending or dismantling by the bird, made of non-toxic material, and designed for safety and ease of cleaning. Perches of natural woods that or nontoxic and pesticide free are clean, easily replaced and inexpensive. They should be of an appropriate diameter for your bird and placed as not to overcrowd the cage but still give your bird ample climbing and perching options. Avoid placing them over food or water to prevent contamination by droppings. Sand paper covered perches should be avoided as they can cause irritation and sores on the bird's feet.It is recommended to place food and water bowls at opposite ends of the cage. Multiple water dishes may help deter bathing in the drinking water and separate bowls for "wet" or fresh and dry food should be used. Bowls should be cleaned daily as we would our own dishes. Cage bottoms and liners should be changed daily also, and observation of dropping as well as checking for signs of blood should be made at that time. Changes in color or consistency of droppings could indicate a medical problem. Using newspaper, paper towels, or other plain paper liners make it easier to monitor this. Birds should not be allowed contact with other substrates (like sand, kitty litter, corn cobs or wood chips) as they tend to harbor and grow bacteria and fungus and are not generally recommended. The entire cage should be thoroughly cleaned weekly. Toys All birds are inherently curious, active and more intelligent than most people realize. It is very important that they can be kept busy and stimulated by a variety of toys and in most cases have access to chewable items like branches, pinecones, rawhide chews and soft white pine. Some birds love to tear paper and chew cardboard from paper towel rolls; rolls of plain adding machine paper on a stick for then to unravel and chew can provide lots of entertainment. Be sure to select toys with the safety of the bird in mind. Avoid small metal chains and clasps that toes can get caught in as well as items with fabrics or threads that can get wrapped around toes and feet or legs. Select wooden items that are dyed with natural dyes or that are un-dyed, natural wood. Change and move toys often to keep the bird interested.Grooming Feathers need constant care. The normal bird cleans, arranges and lubricates his feathers intermittently throughout the day. Daily misting and a minimum of weekly bathing is recommended to encourage grooming and help keep the skin clean and feathers free of excessive feather dust. Soiled feathers can be cleaned with a small amount of mild soap (dawn dish soap or baby shampoo) followed by a thorough rinsing and drying.We at Village Veterinary Hospital recommend wing clipping. Many injuries can and do occur do to flying into windows or walls or other dangerous surfaces and well as by inadvertently escaping out a door or window. It also aids in taming and training. Options can be discussed with your veterinarian. Generally, healthy birds on a good diet with access to plenty of chewable materials do not need beak trims. Nail trims are frequently done to prevent overlong nails from being caught in toys or owners' clothing. Sharp nails are also very uncomfortable on bare arms or hands! Veterinary Care Veterinarians emphasize that the most important physical examination for a bird is the first one! Birds can appear well and still have problems. It is important to know your veterinarian. Every animal at some time in his life will become sick and need medical services. There's a real advantage to knowing an avian veterinarian who is personally familiar with your bird and its background.Birds effectively hide signs of sickness showing them only when the problem is advanced. Birds cover up these signs instinctively as they would be driven off from the flock or become targets for predators in the wild. Birds that look sick may be dying. Early signs of sickness are easily missed and frequently misinterpreted. Speedy diagnosis and treatment of problems is important Signs of sickness in a bird may include: Loss of appetite Sneezing, coughing, wheezing Heavy or fast breathing Ruffled feathers Inactivity Excessive sleeping or keeping eyes closed Diarrhea or vomiting Any of these signs of sickness require rapid attention. Dangers to Avoid Ceiling fans; large exposed windows; hot stove tops, pans, and cooking oil; Teflon®-coated items (overheated); leg chains; sandpaper-covered perches; tobacco and cigarette smoke; chocolate, avocado, rhubarb, parsley; salt; alcohol; toxic houseplants; pesticides; 'mite' boxes in cages; toxic fumes; easily dismantled toys; dogs, cats and young children; cedar, redwood and pressure-treated wood shavings; sources of lead or zinc; cords; plug-in air fresheners.
Pelleted food is a blend of grains, seeds, vegetables, fruits, and various protein sources. Manufacturers mix the ingredients and either bake and crumble them or extrude them, ending up with pellets of a proper size for any given species (large pellets for large birds, small pellets for small birds). This process produces a food that has a definite and huge overall advantage to the "smorgasbord" way of feeding - the bird cannot pick out his favorite foods and ignore the rest. Pellets also are convenient for bird owners. These commercially prepared diets are easy to buy, relatively inexpensive (definitely so when you consider the veterinary trips they save), and store nicely in a cool, dry place. Vitamin A is the most common deficiency seen in pet birds, particularly those on seed-based, marginal diets. Vitamin A is necessary to boost he immune system and protect against bacterial infections. Birds deficient in Vitamin A do not have the protective mucous lining their complex sinus, respiratory, reproductive and digestive systems, which allows harmful bacteria to penetrate the tissues causing secondary infections. An immune-suppressed, deficient bird does not have the ability to fight of these invasive pathogens. Good Vitamin A Sources
Sugar foods - frostings, chocolate, candy, soda pop, cookies, etc. Dairy - birds lack the digestive enzymes needed to break down milk sugar and milk proteins. Uncultured milk products like milk, cream and butter should not be fed, but yogurt and cheeses can be supplemented in the diet in moderation (they are also high in fat and some cheeses are salty). Lettuce - a typical filler food that is low in everything except water. It does not offer anything for your bird's diet. Avocado - is toxic to birds. Also avoid parsley and rhubarb.
Calcium should also be supplemented, especially for egg layers, as calcium deficiency is a common problem (especially in Amazons and African Greys). Cuttlebones, mineral blocks, cooked and crushed egg shells and Vit. D-Calcium-phosphorous powders are possible ways to add calcium to the diet, as well as some vegetables. Grit is not necessary for birds who hull or crack their seeds. Birds that do not; soft-bills like pigeons or poultry, need the grit to facilitate the grinding of food in the birds gizzard. If your parrot is seen to be passing undigested seed in their stool, seek the advice of an avian veterinarian. Obesity is the most common nutritional disease in caged birds. Any bird has the potential to get fat but it is most commonly seen in Amazons, African Grays, and budgies (often fed all seed diets). These birds in particular can develop liver disease due to obesity.
Other steps that may be helpful in converting to pellets include: - Changing your bird's environment. Move the bird to a new location, even a new cage. Remove toys, perches and bowls and offer the pellets on a solid surface on the floor. Sprinkling the food on a mirror or white paper works well for budgies. The mirror may encourage your bird to eat to compete with the "rival" bird and white paper draws attention to the particles. - Feed at mealtimes. Place the food on a plate and move it around with your finger and pretend to eat it in front of your bird. - Crush pellets and sprinkle over regular food or moisten them and mix with seeds. Moistening the pellets with a little fruit juice (no added sugar!) could also be tried. - Cover the pellets with a layer of their regular food so the bird eats down into the pellets. - Large pellets may encourage some parrots to pick them up with their feet and take a bite. Most larger-sized parrots are very tactile and like to grab at new things. Do not starve your bird to convert them! A small bird cannot go hungry for more than 36 hours without risk of starvation. As a reminder, change their water frequently; at least twice a day, as many birds will defecate and bath in their water. Multiple sources of water may be helpful also. Fresh foods should also be changed frequently or removed if they would be left in the cage for any length of time. Fruits are terrible for attracting fruit flies as well as spoiling quickly in warm weather. All water and food bowls or containers should be washed daily as you would your own dishware. Below is a recipe that is excellent for feeding to debilitated or recuperating birds: Rachel's Bird Mash
As the temperature steadily gets hotter, it is important to remember that our pets can suffer from the heat too. Here are some tips that can be used for every species.
Signs of heatstroke can include: CollapseSticky drool Weakness Vomiting Shock Bright red or pale gray, tacky gums Rapid Panting Muscle incoordination Rapid Heart Rate Seizures Recommendations for winterizing and holiday
season preparedness
Beware the holiday hazards that lurk in your home
Ways to include your pet in the holidays!
Holiday Travel Planning If you travel on holidays, you'll want to prepare your pet to handle trips with minimum stress. Also, contacting airlines and train stations early to check on their requirements will save you some stress. If driving, find out where pet friendly hotels and rest stops are so the whole family can stretch their legs. If not traveling with your pets, make sure to book reservations with pet sitters and boarding facilities as soon as you know your plans as they do book up quickly. Some dogs develop separation anxiety and owners traveling can precipitate such behavior. Carefully check out the boarding facility or in home care giver if there are any concerns. Contact your veterinarian for suggestions on how to ease your pets stay and keep them as comfortable as possible while you're away. Make arrangements with your veterinarian for the caretaker to be able to bring your pet in if necessary while you're away. Find out about your veterinarian's payment policy, be clear about your wishes as to treatment, and leave contact information for the veterinarian to reach you. If you are staying in someone's home, make sure your pets are welcome to stay with you before you go. While there, prevent things from happening that would keep your pet from traveling with you next time. Whatever you're doing for the holidays, it's likely to be a fairly hyperactive version of your everyday life. Learning to function well in your everyday routine has not necessarily prepared your pets to handle holidays with grace. Learning holiday-savvy behavior WILL make everyday life a breeze. Remember, more time inside usually means less opportunities for physical activity and exercise. Pets still have energy that they need to expend and they may find inappropriate ways to do so if not given proper exercise. They may become destructive and scratch or chew on the holiday decorations. Take time to include them in activities by buying them a few new holiday toys, this may keep them from eating the holiday roast! Most of all, have fun, and enjoy the winter and holiday season!! Remember that your pets are companion animals and enjoy human contact; friends, relatives and attention in general. Your holidays will be much less stressful if you take just little time to be prepared. Disaster Preparedness for Your Pets Don't wait for a disaster, plan ahead!
For more information visit the Whatcom County Division of Emergency Management Stinky Skunk Smell Solver This mixture will treat a 50 lb. DogMix 5 cups of lukewarm water with enough baking soda to make the mixture pourable (not lumpy and not too watered down). It should be about the consistency of pancake batter or a little thinner. Add ½ cup hydrogen peroxide and ½ cup dish soap (liquid "by hand" soap, NOT automatic dishwasher detergent!) Coat entire dog with this mixture from the neck down. DO NOT get mixture in eyes. It is best to apply a protective ointment to the dog's eyes when using this mixture, such as Neobacimyx or Terramycin. If eye contact occurs, flush well with sterile water or saline, and contact a veterinarian. Leave mixture on for 5-10 minutes. Rinse extremely well. May cause some bleaching or staining of coat. Repeat as necessary, but it should not be necessary. Note: Since the dish detergent "strips" the skin of natural oils, a moisturizing shampoo or conditioning treatment may be needed. It will wash off some flea treatments also. Bird Treats
Bird Bread #1 1 cup whole wheat flour 1 cup yellow corn meal 2 tsp baking power 3/4 tsp salt 1/2 tsp baking soda 1 Tbs sugar 2 eggs with shells 3 Tbs oil (your preference) 1 cup buttermilk Grease an 8" pan with Pam. Mix dry ingredients. Wash eggs then pulverize in blender. Mix in oil and buttermilk, then mix in dry ingredients. Bake for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Cool and cut into small squares and freeze. Variations: Fruits, veggies, peppers, nuts, etc. can be added to the mixture if you like. Bird Bread #2 This recipe makes a "heavy" bread, not as light as you would prepare for yourself, but the birds love it! Notice that it contains very little baking powder (some baking powders contain aluminum), no added sugar or other sweeteners, and no added salt. In a large bowl combine the following ingredients: 2 cups yellow corn meal 1 cup whole wheat flour l cup currants or raisins 1 cup nuts (pine, almond, walnut, pecan) 1 cup shelled sunflower seeds 1 twenty-nine ounce can of solid pack pumpkin 1 thirty-two ounce bottle of papaya nectar 1/2 cup of sunflower or safflower oil 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon baking powder Add enough water or juice to make a pourable batter. Use two large well-greased baking pans. Bake at 425 degrees for 30 minutes or until done. Cool and slice. Can be frozen. Sweet Potato Balls A great source of Vitamin A! You can add just about anything to this basic mix; peanut butter, oatmeal, coconut or fruits or vegetables are some examples. 1 large sweet potato, microwaved until soft 1/2 cup raisins 1 mashed banana 1 cup mixed fresh or frozen mixed vegetables 1 cup diced apples 1 1/2 cup uncooked oatmeal, corn flakes or granola cereal. Mix all together and add enough fruit or vegetable juice to make it form small balls. Freeze balls individually. Defrost and serve. Easy Cornbread Good recipe to help convert birds to a pelleted diet. 1 package cornbread mix (try to get one low in sugar) 2 eggs, shell included 1/2 cup seed mix 1/2 cup pellets (any brand you prefer) 1 cup mixed vegetables. Mix ingredients together per package instructions and adding the extra ingredients above. Bake at 350 degrees for about 35 minutes. Rachel's Bird Mash one hard-boiled egg. Add dry High Protein Gerber baby cereal Add jarred baby food (chicken or turkey) Add wheat germ Add Nekton powdered vitamins Add warm water until it sticks together. It should be fairly thick, not watery or soupy. This spoils quickly so do not leave it out. Remove within 12 hours. Dog Treats
Homemade Treat Recipe (Hill's Pet Nutrition) Yield: approx. two dozen treats Using canned food:
Using Dry Food:
Training Treats Ingredients: 2 1/3 cups flour -- all-purpose or whole wheat 1/4 cup olive oil 1/4 cup applesauce 1/2 cup grated cheese -- like parmesan 1 large egg 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 cup powdered milk -- non-fat Instructions: Combine all ingredients in a large bowl; mix well; Roll the dough out to size of a cookie sheet; Pat the dough onto a lightly greased cookie sheet, bringing it to the edges. Using a sharp knife or a pizza cutter, cut desired sizes into dough (just score through). If you're using as training treats, cut them into small pieces; Sprinkle a little extra cheese and garlic powder if desired on dough for flavor. Bake in a 350 degree oven about 15 minutes until golden brown. Turn off the oven and let cool for a few hours; They will keep hardening the longer you leave them. Break them apart; store tightly covered or in the freezer.
6 ounce can of tuna 1/4 cup water drained from tuna 3 T cooked egg white, chopped 1/4 cup cornmeal 1/2 cup whole wheat flour preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine tuna, egg white and water. Add cornmeal and flour and blend to form a dough. Knead into a ball and roll to 1/4 inch thick. Cut into one-inch sized pieces. Bake at 350 F for 20 minutes. Makes 12 cookies. Cheesy Treats 3/4 cup white flour 3/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese 5 TBSP grated parmesan cheese 1/4 cup plain yogurt or sour cream 1/4 cup cornmeal Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Combine cheeses and yogurt. Add flour and cornmeal. Knead dough into a ball and roll to 1/4 inch. Cut into one inch sized pieces and place on greased cookie sheet. Bake for 25 minutes. Makes 2 dozen. Fishballs 8 oz. can tuna in oil - drained 2 oz. cooked herring or other fatty fish - skin removed 3 baby carrots - boiled until tender, mashed 1 egg - beaten 3 T. grated cheese 2 T. whole grain bread crumbs OR rolled oats 2 T. tomato paste 2 tsp. brewer's yeast - see NOTES 1/4 tsp. catnip -Combine all ingredients; mix well. -Roll dough into 1" balls and place balls 1" apart on a greased cookie sheet. -Bake in a 350 degree oven for 15-20 minutes, until golden brown and firm. -Allow to cool on wire racks. Notes : Store in refrigerator up to 3 weeks OR freeze up to 1 year. Brewer's yeast is an excellent source of essential fatty acids and B-Complex vitamins for a glossy coat and stable nervous system. It's also known to help prevent flea infestation. |
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Foods that are NOT
recommended: 
Cat Treats
